Introduction:

There are various ways to build a dovecote. A method that I often employ is to build a 'Barrel-Body' which can be considered to be the dovecote chassis. I then clad the barrel-body to make the dovecote body assembly. Most of my dovecote builds have a removable roof as it makes transportation and mounting on the pole much easier.

In this section of my website I have posted photos of the Wombles dovecote at various stages of completion.

Here is the completed barrel-body shown upside down.

In this photo you can see the pole mounting arrangement.

The upper plywood washer (which is the lower washer when the dovecote is the right way up), is not yet secured in place as the assembly has yet to receive its third and final coat of paint.

The panelling of the barrel-body extends below the pole fixing arrangement which is not visible unless you are standing close to the dovecote.

This system has proven to offer a secure mounting without the pole encroaching into any of the compartments.

Here is the completed barrel-body ready to receive the tongued and grooved fixed panels that will cover the left hand side of each facet.

The total labour time to make the body-barrel (minus painting time) was 10 hours.

Once the barrel-body was finished I could commence the fixed panelling. My design calls for removable access panels so only the left hand side of each facet (face), of the dovecote will be covered with fixed panels. 

My timber of choice for panelling is Redwood T&G (Tongued and Grooved); it has good rot and insect resistance, although for a long life it does need to have a weatherproof finish applied.   

The photo shows the fixed panelling in place. The fixed panels have the pop-hole apertures that allow access to the 4 x lower compartments; this allows the pop-hole apertures for the removable panels to provide access and egress for the 4 x upper compartments, the reason for this is to allow the lower edge of the removable panels to be left clear where they enter the lower retaining channel.

Note.

Personally I like to see a neat row of screws and don’t very often feel the need to apply filler and paint over them. But, unless it’s a boat, I don’t like to see too many screws. The top rows of screws are not visible when the roof is fitted on the dovecote. The bottom row of screws will be covered by the lower channel that retains the removable panels.

The total labour time to make the fixed panelling including cutting out the pop-hole apertures' scalloping the lower edge and screwing the panels in place was 5 hours.

 Introduction:

To complete the body-barrel / fixed panel assembly there are 4 tasks to complete.

1. Strengthen the lower unsupported ends of the Redwood T&G.

2. Fit the balconies below the pop-holes giving access to the lower floor compartments.

3. Fit the Redwood battens to the inner face of the fixed outer panelling to support the outer edge of the upper floorboards; and

4. Cut out the floorboards.

Strengthening the lower unsupported ends of the Redwood T&G:

The lower edge of the T&G are strengthened by Redwood strips cut from a piece of T&G board, each length will provide 2 x strips when cut in half. I glued and screwed them in place as shown in the photo.

Fit the balconies:

There are a number of different styles of balcony you can use; e.g. full width, half width or simple battens as normally employed on a wall mounted dovecote.

My personal preference is now for batten balconies! This arose because my dominant lazy gene didn’t see the point in scraping the bird poo off the balconies.

The disadvantage of batten balconies is that the doves can’t roost on them overnight and have to go inside the compartment, or one dove can stand or sit on a batten balcony and look outwards, there isn’t room for 2 x doves on a batten balcony.

I prepared 4 x batten balconies and fitted them in place. They can be clearly seen in the photo.

Next I prepared and fitted the Redwood battens to support the outer edge of the upper floorboards.

The final task to complete this stage was to cut out and fit the 8 x floorboards. 

The total time taken for completion of the fixed panelling was 2.5 hours.

Introduction:

The next logical step (before completion of the removable panels for the body-barrel assembly), is to make the roof framework. 

The upper side of the roof (photo) consists of a buttress box built on the plywood roof base. 4 extra buttress legs are then added to complete the roof framework (or eaves).

The buttress box will support the 4 sides of the roof cladding.

Working from the lower side of the roof board I framed the perimeter with Redwood profiled to my favourite scalloped / crenulated pattern.

Next I temporarily fastened the roof to the barrel body then leaving a 3mm gap from the face of the fixed T&G panelling I fastened a central set of Redwood battens to the underside of the roof.

Note.

In practice these battens form the upper location points for the 4 x removable panel. The 3mm gap allows for the thickness of the paint on both sides of the fixed panels thus allowing them to slide easily into place.

The time taken to complete the roof to this stage was 6.5 hours.

The Removable Panels:

The manufacture and fitment of the removable access panels completes the body assembly.

The first task was to make the four lower retaining channels which are each held in position by 4 x screws. The panels themselves are made with Redwood Tongued and Grooved boarding which are fastened to Redwood battens.

To fit them you lift the panel up so that the top fits in between the barrel-body roof and the battens on the underside of the roof assembly. The bottom edge is then lowered into the channel.

The total labour time to make the removable panels including cutting out the pop-hole apertures, and screwing the battens in place was 2.5 hours.

With the body assembly completed the inner panels are cut to size and fitted to the roof.

Bearing in mind that this dovecote is being made from one sheet of plywood the width of the inner panels are limited to the same size as the roof baseboard, therefore they can only extend approximately 5mm past the edge of the roof. To extend them further would increase the gap between adjoining panels.

1. The plywood panels merely act as support for the StokBord outer covering.

2. In the photo the plywood panels are not yet fully screwed down as I need to apply 3 x coats of paint to the inside surfaces.

The total time taken to prepare and fit the plywood roof panels was 1.5 hours.

Nearly finished

Once I had applied 3 x coats of paint to the inside and outside of the inner plywood roof panels I screwed them in place.

The next job was to prepare the StokBord outer roof panels, cut them to size and shape and fasten them to the roof.

The total time taken to prepare and fit the StokBord roof panels was 1.5 hours.

To finish the corners of the roof I made some galvanised steel trim strips. Each trim-strip was then secured in place at the top end with 2 x 20mm long screws going through the StokBord panel and into the plywood panel beneath it.

Note.

The screws are kept close to the upper end of the trim-strip so they are completely covered by the lead flashing.

The bottom end of the trim strips are secured by 6mm stainless steel fastenings that are fitted at the lower edge.

These screws (fully threaded button head bolts), only pass through the StokBord and not the inner plywood roof panels. This ensures that if any moisture passes down the screw it does not enter the roof cavity. 

To waterproof the apex of the roof I fitted a piece of sheet lead flashing which was shaped to follow the contour of the roof by tapping it into place. The lead is held in position by a finial.

The last job was to fit a finial; normally I would make one out of a piece of oak but the general shape of the Wombles dovecote doesn't require anything fancy. Checking my local retail park type store I found a Tanalised fence post finial that was the ideal shape; it came with a screw already fitted in the centre and cost the princely sum of £3.10. After applying a liberal dose of sealant around the screw the finial was screwed into place.

The total time taken for this stage was 2.5 hours.

I like square dovecotes for a number of reasons; including:

1. They are easier to make.

2. They can easily incorporate my 3 must have features of; removable panels, removable / replaceable floors and a roof designed to be roosted on. 

3. In my opinion they are much more practical than hexagonal or octagonal cotes. 

4. I find them aesthetically appealing.

The total cost of materials for the Wombles dovecote came to over £200 but this price doesn't include a mounting pole. The current cost locally for a Tanalised 100mm diameter 12' long pole is £16.99. 

It took 32 hours to build although this doesn't include painting time; which I didn't keep a record of, but I estimate at around 15 hours. So a total of 47 hours to build the Wombles dovecote.

I estimate that it would take another 4 hours to dig the hole and erect the dovecote but this would be very much dependent on soil conditions. As mentioned previously I have built this dovecote purely for inclusion in my book; 'Let's Build a Dovecote.' Therefore this dovecote is for sale. I am asking £300 for it and it will need to be collected from the Peterborough area.

Note.

This dovecote is now sold

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